Skip to content


Close (esc)

Stay In The Loop

Sign up to our mailing list to receive offers, group ride details, and new product info.
Don't worry, we won't clog your inbox – we're far too busy for that!

Rivendell Susie Long Bolts Frameset - Sergio Green

Regular price £2,000.00

Tax included

Shipping calculated at checkout


Need Another Size?

Need a size that's not in stock? Drop us a line for the latest availability.

In Stock Now!

We Say...

Rivendells most offroad cabable bike, stick some 2.6 tyres in there and the Susie could send it down a red run, albeit with a little more finesse than on a full suspension mountain bike, and thats the whole point, it harks back to the good old days of mountain biking when trails were natural and finesse was required. 

Having pushed the limit of My Joe Appaloosa on rough stuff, I can tell you the Rivendells forks will glide over rough terrain and absorb rough bits like nothing else. 


They say...

Three things that make a bike work for trails

1. Long wheelbase. Length adds stability in surfboards, skateboards, cars, skis, boats, and bicycles. Our Hillibike chainstays are almost half a foot longer than your garden-variety modern mountain bike chainstays, and the bikes ride better for it.

2. High handlebars. A higher bar makes it easier to keep your weight safe and rearward riding position on steep descents, and is more comfortable on all terrain. When you hit a bump a higher bar makes it easier to control the bike. Lower bars are marginally better for climbing, but climbing is in your legs and technique, not bars. Just make sure your grips are up where they feel good.

3. Big tires. Big soft knobbies work great, and any skilled rider should be able to ride rough surfaces with 2-inch tires and some care and skill. The CLEM fits tires at least up to 2.4, and the Gus and Wolbis, to 2.6 inches. That’s plenty big.

Susie's materials, quality, longevity

The frames and forks are made of chromium-molybdenum steel (CrMo)—the best-for-bicycles, most dimensionally appropriate, toughest, longest-lasting, most recyclable, and safest frame and fork material in the world. The lugs are our own design, and add strength, detail, and beauty to the joints. We're proud of them.

Chrome-Molybdenum (CrMo) steel is the best frame and fork material, period.
CrMo responds to trauma by denting and bending, not shattering or snapping in half. If it gets hurt by minor impacts, gouges, and scratches, it tends to slough them off. Carbon degrades with exposure to sun and water; CrMo doesn’t.

Any damage or threat to steel is visible because it’s on the outside, not hidden inside among layers of carbon fabric. That’s why steel is used for hammers, nails, bridges, the skin of ships, and the guts of rocketship engines.

Rust and Longevity.

 "Rust fear" is unjustified since rust avoidance is so easy. Paint takes care of the outside, and internal rust is not likely to kill your frame for at least 50 years, but we recommend a rust-inhibitor spray for the insides...something like Boeshield T9. We sell that, and Ace Hardware sells half a dozen other anti-rust sprays. 

There are a dozen or more readily available sprays that stop or prevent rust on steel, and yet the streets of Europe and Asia are filled with 50-year old steel bikes that have never been treated or coddled, and still roll. 

Spray your frame and don’t fret. Your Susie will be rideable decades after today’s carbon frames are landfill.


Our Hillibikes are hand-made and built as well as any production frame in the world.  Each Gus and Wolbis frame (not including fork) takes one builder five hours to make. They’re good frames.

Load Bearing.

It’s for riders under 250 pounds and 25lbs or less. If you weigh 160 pounds, you can probably carry loads of 40lbs. Our weight limits are a conservative hunch, not laboratory-derived. A lot of it depends on tire pressure and even more importantly, technique.

It's not for jumps or stunts, it's for for traveling over terrain that requires fatter tires. 

Like our other bikes, it uses a quill stem and has a Riv-standard 1-inch threaded steerer.

Frame Geometry Notes

There’s a lot of misunderstanding about how a frame’s geometry (angles, dimensions) influences fit and ride. Conventional scuttlebutt says a short chainstay makes a bike quicker; a slack seat tube adds comfort; more “trail” or less will make your ride better or worse; a longer top tube stretches you out and is bad for women; and short femurs need steep seat tube angles.

I believed all of that for decades and helped spread it to a generation and a half of riders that drop bars = performance = wonderfulness of multiple hand positions = the only way to go. Most designers still believe that, but I'll go further than to say I don't believe it. I know it's just not so.

Also back then, I didn’t understand how a swept-back handlebar allows you a natural, wrist-inward hand position AND AND AND makes it easy to more safely descend scary or steep or loose or bumpy hills. You sit back to put your weight on the rear wheel (fighting the weight-shift that comes with a steep downhill); and then you push the front wheel out in front of you, so you can't do an endo.

I also, in my stupid youth, didn’t know how a longer top tube can feel shorter than a shorter one, or the effects of converging or diverging seat and head tube angles. Early on, it struck me weird that bikes grow taller faster than they grow longer, but I figured the hallowed brands knew what they were doing, and knowing how they did it constituted learning to me. 

Now I think they designed bikes around available lugs, and they found narrow formulas that worked OK for certain sized bodies riding drop-bar bikes on the roads of post-war Europe. They paved the way and were the turtles on whose backs we now stand and so on, but we design our Hillibikes with Hillibike numbers.

We may show the geometries online, but may not. I have mixed feelings about that, because I think they mislead people into thinking they can tell how a bike rides by its numbers, and numbers that vary from what any given reader’s norm tends to come off wacky, even when they make super sense.

Relevant numbers:

  • seat post: 26.8mm
  • FD clamp: 28.6mm 
  • Standard 1" threaded headset (included)
  • 73mm bottom bracket shell

 PBH Ranges and Saddle Height (center of crank to top of saddle)

  • 50cm  (650B wheels): 74-76cm. Saddle height: 63cm to 65cm
  • 53cm (650B wheels):  77-88cm. Saddle height: 66cm to 77cm
  • 56cm (700C wheels): 79-90cm. Saddle height: 68cm to 79cm
  • 59cm (700C wheels): 84-100cm. Saddle height: 73cm to 89cm



History (why these bikes)

October 21, 1976: The first of 22 informal but still serious races in which baby boomers in their 20s rode pre-WWII paperboy bikes beyond their limits down a 1,300 foot, 2.1-mile fire trail on Marin County’s Mount Tamalpais.

Frames bent, parts broke, brakes failed, and the single-speed gears were fine going down but not back up. Each vulnerable or unsuitable part was modified or replaced, until the state-of-the-art bike had a hodge podge of parts borrowed from BMX bikes, touring bikes, road bikes, and motorcycles. By the summer of 1977, the parts were fine, but the frames still weren’t.

So in the fall of 1977, one of the riders, a 23-year-old with the cool name of Joe Breeze, built a frameset using virgin, state-of-the-art materials, and assembled it with new and trail-worthy parts. That bike, now known as Breezer No. 1, was the world’s first fully baked, non-hodgey-podgey, genuine, bona fide, mountain bike. He’d build eighty more.

Joe rode Breezer No. 1 fast and hard on Mount Tamalpais and in the Rockies in Colorado. The Smithsonian borrowed it in March 2012, and it’s still there. If you could rent that Breezer No. 1 for a day, you’d feel pretty much what Joe felt, because bumps, rubble, ruts, and loose dirt haven’t changed since 1977.

It’s mountain bikes that have changed. Thru the ‘80s, they were simple: strong frames and forks with big tires, powerful brakes, and low gears. They were egalitarian, too. Other revolutionary bikes have been classist, sexist, snobby, exclusionary, or for the costumed clique, Euro-fawning road racers. The early mountain bikes were developed and refined by racers, but they worked as well for musicians, farmers, bookworms, and slackers. People who didn’t ride road bikes rode mountain bikes and had a blast, and the bikes held up.

Mountain bikes remained simple throughout the ‘80s, but formal mountain bike racing began in 1983, and drove physical changes in the bike and attitudes toward riding. By 1990, racing had gone international, and manufacturers adopted motocross technology to give their racers an edge on the roughest, fastest downhills, and the new technology (suspension) became standard. John Q. Public’s lust for technology was insatiable, and each uptick in bike tech left mountain biking’s flannel shirt, work boots-and-camaraderie roots further behind.

The uncomplicated trail bike is too boring for the mass market. It doesn’t work for the high-speed/high-risk stunts that define modern mountain biking, and that many riders aspire to.

To emphasize that our fatty tire bikes aren’t technologically un-evolved mountain bikes or geared beach cruisers, friend and former employee Roman suggested hill bikes. We capitalized it for importance and added an i halfway through to make it easier to say.

A bike doesn’t have to be a Rivendell to be a Hillibike. Any ‘80s mountain bike, or any fat-tire bike without motocross technology can be a Hillibike. The term Hillibike is a small-potatoes "invention" that won't likely catch on, but we like it. It's open-source, as far as we're concerned.


Need a size that's not in stock? Drop us a message with the model, size and colour you're after and we'll be right back with the latest availability.

Back to top

Shopping Cart

Your cart is currently empty

Shop now